Prefinished wood and aluminium frames
The majority of framing we do uses prefinished mouldings which are available to choose from in various colours and finishes in the gallery.
We carry ranges from all the major frame manufacturers including the Larson Juhl collection from Arqadia.
We stock hundreds of mouldings and can source many more if you can’t see what you want here.
Barefaced woods can be stained or painted which can then be waxed or varnished over. A procedure we have developed as an extension to the painted finish is to use emulsion paint that is thickened with whiting (an inert chalk filler) that is applied in several layers. This is then sanded back and water polished to give a plaster like surface that can be painted before being sealed.
This process is ideal for framing 3D items such as medals or football shirts. It involves separating the glass from the artwork or object by means of mountboard or timber spacers. Flat artwork like drymounted photos or prints can also be box framed. Loose paper will present better if it is floated or laid on to a mountboard as trapping the edges of the paper under the spacers can cause the paper to buckle.
The moulding used needs to be of sufficient depth to accomodate the items being framed, but should it be necessary a subframe can be constructed to increase the depth.
Tray frames are an ideal way to frame photographic prints or canvases without glass giving the appearance of floating in the frame. Photographs will need to mounted onto dibond or aluminium to keep them rigid, then a subframe is attached to the back which gives the floating effect. Stretched canvases are ideal for framing in a tray. Optionally a small gap or gulley can be left between the artwork and the edge of the frame. The depth of the subframe can be adjusted so the artwork can be flush with the top of the frame, or recessed.
For a frameless look we can supply acrylic tray frames. Dust covers are fabricated using a single sheet of perspex with heat formed edges. The artwork can be mounted on an MDF base which has timber split batons on the reverse for ease of hanging. It is also possible to mount the artwork on a second smaller perspex tray instead of the MDF for a completely see through effect. For items requiring an air gap larger than six inches, it is more practical to make a display case. Each side is individually siliconed together, with the object sitting on a wooden plinth that has a rebated lip.
The most basic method of stretching a canvas is to cut and join a suitable length of timber and pull the work as tight as possible using stretcher pliers. The only drawback is that if the work sags over time, there is no way of retightening it except taking it off and starting again.
A better solution is to use ready made stretcher bars which have an interlocking mortice and tenon joint at the corners, with a slot on the inside edge enabling a wedge to be inserted that can be tapped gently to retighten the canvas over time.